GOOD, CLEAN ADVENTURE: THE BATHS OF BUDAPEST

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Last of three parts
The city of Budapest sits atop more than a hundred thermal springs. An early Celtic settlement in the area was named Ak-Ink ("abundant waters"). When the Romans arrived, they renamed the settlement Aquincum and built several extensive baths. In the 16th century, the Turks added their steam baths, and about a dozen historic bath sites remain in operation today.
In this, our second visit to Budapest, we stayed at the Grand Hotel Margitsziget, which sits on an island in the Danube between the cities of Buda and Pest. The island itself is the result of thermal spring waters pushing their way to the surface, thus providing the area with a multitude of thermal and medicinal water spas.
The island is the home of both the classic Grand Hotel (1879) and the contemporary Thermal Hotel (1979), a vast public outdoor pool complex, along with the Hungarian Olympic Swimming Federation complex.
The Margitsziget spa is undergoing total refurbishing. To date, the swimming pool, showers, changing rooms, steam bath, saunas and aromatherapy room (low steam with a difference) have taken on the look of a hedonist’s dream. To come are new facilities for medical, dental, massage, underwater massage, mud pack, ultrasound and other treatments too numerous to mention. The physical training room will contain the latest and best conditioning equipment available in Europe and the United States.
The showpiece of the complex is three thermal pools filled with medicinal waters. The hot pool water is kept at 38 degrees Centigrade (100.4 Fahrenheit), and you are limited to 15 minutes' exposure. The medium pool is 34 to 36 degrees C. (about 93 to 97 F.), and the warm pool, 32 degrees C. (86.6 F.).
The spa is known for its thermal traction treatment that involves the patient by the head in a medium pool, thereby loosening the spine and providing neurological relief. All treatments are under the direction of a physician.
Comparison spa-hopping
We visited the Helia Hotel in Pest to compare its spa facilities and programs. This hotel is also on the banks of the Danube and much more accessible to public transport than the island hotels. It has three major pools for soaking and a rather small physical conditioning room.
The pools are arranged similarly to those of the Margitsziget, but the ambience is not as open and luxurious. While most of the same services are offered, they do not seem to be of the same scope at the Helia due to the more cramped quarters and thus a higher use density.
We also visited the Hotel Gellert (1928) and attached public baths (1918). One enters the spa complex from a side street, paying the appropriate fees to the two cashiers at the entrance. The facilities and treatments are posted on four-foot lists, with an English translation on one wall.
Even with the translation, however, one needs the assistance of a spa habitué to understand just what is entailed. The complex has four primary venues: a unisex indoor swimming pool; men’s thermal spa, massage etc.; women’s thermal spa, massage etc.; and the outdoor facilities.
Swimming in the unisex and outdoor pools requires suitable bathing attire. The indoor pool is one of the most elegant, classic swimming areas imaginable. It has mosaic tile frescoes, Florentine balconies, sculptured marble columns and glass accents that all take swimmers back in time to century-ago excesses. The outdoor pools extend out from the grand deck, an ocean of water in the main pool, where Europe’s first wave machine is turned on for 10 minutes every hour on the hour during the summer.
It is in the public spa pools, however, where one is really transported back in time. Access to the complex is via a set of creaky wooden stairs that come out on a balcony of changing rooms with cots and lockers. A roving attendant leads you to an open cubicle and hands you a square of bleached muslin with a thong. Unless you prefer the constraints of a bathing suit, you put your clothes and accessories in the locker and tie the apron in front of your privates.
When you step out of the cubicle, the attendant returns and locks the locker, giving you an aluminum tag which somehow signifies that your possessions are secure. You then attach the tag to your thong and take the stairs back down to the main floor for a shower before entering the pools area.
I had a good time playing with the shower controls until I figured out you had to push in on the knob before twisting. This action activates the instant electric water heater in the shower head, allowing cold water to enter and hot water to come out.
In the pool area were two pools: hot (38 C/100.4 F) and warm (34 C/93.2 F). Each is about 25 to 30 feet square. There are benches along two sides, the stairway along another, and a large lion’s head spouting thermal water on the fourth. The entire area is mosaic tile and stone carvings. Three spouts come out of the lion’s mouth, and there is a pecking order to standing under the flow.
Foam, steam and back to reality
Past the pools were the massage room and the Turkish bath. In the massage room were half dozen stainless steel benches and a masseur. The masseur spread some foam on the patient for lubrication and began his routine. You could contract for a massage of 15, 30 or 60 minutes.
I never saw the Turkish bath — the steam was too thick. The room appeared to be about 15 feet square, with benches on one wall. The floor had a wooden grate to protect your feet and mosaic tile surfaces. I decided it was smart to turn my apron around and sit on it in the bath, given the hot surface of the bench.
When you are ready to return to the real world, you take a final shower and exchange your apron for a towel. Then you climb back up stairs and signal for the attendant to open your locker, hand over your aluminum disk, don your clothes and exit.
According to my wife, the women’s baths are similar except the women receive a slightly larger apron, which is almost triangular. She says the dowagers were evident with their jewelry, and the younger women were conspicuous by their attempts at modesty. I can only imagine.
After taking the waters, I highly recommend a stop at the drink bar for an excellent Hungarian beer or other liquid. Beer is relatively new to Hungary, and the populace has taken to it with a vengeance. The local brew is very light — a surprise to me, given the German, Dutch and Scandinavian tendency toward strong and bitter brews.
Soaking in thermal waters for an hour or so a day can definitely be habit forming. And that's without even getting into the daily massages, mud packs, underwater jet massage, ultrasound and other treatments. For them all, you can't beat Budapest.

RED CROSS PLEDGES DISASTER AIR

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June 25, 2001 — In an unusual move, an official from the American Red Cross will be on St. Thomas Wednesday to sign the organization's Statement of Agreement with the Virgin Islands.
Dr. John Clizbe, vice president of Disaster Services for the National Red Cross, said the agreement is meant "to demonstrate our committment to the people of the Virgin Islands in the event that disaster strikes the territory."
The event will be at 10 a.m. at Government House.

RED CROSS PLEDGES DISASTER AID

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June 25, 2001 — In an unusual move, an official from the American Red Cross will be on St. Thomas Wednesday to sign the organization's Statement of Agreement with the Virgin Islands.
Dr. John Clizbe, vice president of Disaster Services for the National Red Cross, said the agreement is meant "to demonstrate our committment to the people of the Virgin Islands in the event that disaster strikes the territory."
The event will be at 10 a.m. at Government House.

DOWE: REOPEN FIRE STATIONS

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June 25, 2001 – Sen. Carlton Dowe is proposing the government borrow against the windfall tax collections recently announced by the administration in order to provide funds to reopen the Dorothea and Fortuna fire stations.
The former fire chief said he wrote Gov. Charles Turnbull in January after a fire took the life of a Northside resident.
"The closed Dorothea station was just minutes away from the fire. Had this station been opened, a life could have been saved," Dowe said in a written statement.
He said Turnbull's announcement that the government anticipates revenues $100 million higher than last year renders moot the argument that there is no money.
"I have an amendment to the Emergency Fund that would allow for the agencies to leverage the monies with assistance of a lending institution," he said.

DOWE: OPEN FIRE STATIONS

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June 25, 2001 – Sen. Carlton Dowe is proposing the government borrow against the windfall tax collections recently announced by the administration in order to provide funds to reopen the Dorothea and Fortuna fire stations.
The former fire chief said he wrote Gov. Charles Turnbull in January after a fire took the life of a Northside resident.
"The closed Dorothea station was just minutes away from the fire. Had this station been opened, a life could have been saved," Dowe said in a written statement.
He said Turnbull's announcement that the government anticipates revenues $100 million higher than last year renders moot the argument that there is no money.
"I have an amendment to the Emergency Fund that would allow for the agencies to leverage the monies with assistance of a lending institution," he said.

THUMBS UP FOR EATING MANGOES UPSIDE-DOWN

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June 25, 2001 – It's mango season — a good reason to find many ways to enjoy this favorite tropical fruit. Of course, the simplest mango recipe calls for a ripe, juicy fruit and clean hands. Half the fun of eating a mango is to sit, suck and savor the flavor of the fresh flesh as it reluctantly pulls from the hard inner seed.
Beyond this, slices of ripe mango can be wrapped with thin slices of ham for a quick appetizer. A creamy, cold mango soup makes a nice light lunch or pre-entree course. Mangoes mix easily in salads, be they based in greenery (with salad or coleslaw fixings) or combined with other fruit like papaya and carambols (starfruit).
Mangoes accompany chicken dishes to perfection. One delicious way to include them on a luncheon or dinner plate is to lightly sautee slices in butter and serve them warm on the side. For dessert, there is mango crisp with its crunchy cinnamon and oatmeal topping, mango ice cream and even mango cheesecake.
One of my favorite mango recipes is for Mango Upside-Down Cake. This comes from the booklet "Mango Bits & Bites" produced by the University of the Virgin Islands Cooperative Extension Service. The booklet contains a brief history of the mango, descriptions of different varieties, agricultural facts from planting to harvesting, and 21 recipes — each with an accompanying nutrient analysis. The booklet is available at the UVI bookstores on the St. Thomas and St. Croix campuses.
Mango Upside-Down Cake
2 cups sliced ripe mango
2 tablespoons lemon juice
1 tablespoon margarine
1/3 cup brown sugar
1/4 cup butter or margarine
1/2 cup sugar
1 egg, beaten
1-1/4 cups flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup milk
Place mangoes in a large mixing bowl. Pour lemon juice over mangoes and let stand for 15 minutes. Melt 1 tablespoon margarine in an 8-inch cake pan or casserole. Add brown sugar and cover with mango slices.
Prepare cake batter by creaming 1/4 cup butter or margarine and sugar. Add beaten egg. Sift dry ingredients — flour, baking powder and salt — and add alternatively with milk.
Pour batter over mangoes and bake 50 to 60 minutes at 375 degrees F. When cake is done, turn upside down on a serving platter. Serve while warm.
Makes 8 servings. Per serving: 275 calories, 9 grams fat (29 percent fat calories), 44 mg cholesterol, 246 mg sodium.
Food footnote: One medium mango contains 135 calories, over 100 percent of the daily requirements for vitamins A and C, and one-fifth of the daily need for dietary fiber. Mangoes are sodium, fat and cholesterol free.

DA DA WINE DOWN FRIDAY AT CAFE AMICI

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This month's Da Da Wine Down will take place from 5 p.m. to 8 p.m. Friday, June 29, at Cafe Amici.
Jane Ryan-Clemo and Phebe Schwartz will be exhibit their art and West Indies Corporation will present their popular wine tasting and seminar for a nominal fee. This month's tasting will feature Rosemount Estate, popular wines from Australia.
Admission to Da Da Wine Down is free and includes complimentary hors d'oeuvres. Each person attending receives a ticket for the chance to win one of the door prizes, awarded towards the end of the evening.
For more information call 779-2686.

ON THURSDAY THE RABBI … WILL TELL JOKES

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June 22, 2001 – Anybody who thinks faith is no laughing matter just might change their mind after spending an evening with Rabbi Bob Alper, who'll be performing — yes, performing — Thursday night at Pistarckle Theater.
Alper, who was ordained at Hebrew Union College in Cincinnati and was the first Jewish person to earn a doctorate from Princeton Theological Seminary, embarked on a second career in 1986, that of a stand-up comic.
That, he's quick to emphasize, is not the same as being a humorist or a storyteller. "If a joke doesn't work within 12 seconds, if people don't laugh, it's out of the act," he says.
He likes to promote himself as "the world's only practicing clergyman doing stand-up comedy … intentionally."
Alper is a full-time entertainer and an occasional rabbi these days. His tour schedule this year has already had him criss-crossing the country for shows in Florida, New Jersey, Arizona, Indiana, Ohio, Illinois, Pennsylvania, New York, Colorado, Alabama and Texas before heading to St. Thomas, where he's actually on a brief vacation.
According to Katina Coulianos, vice president of the Hebrew Congregation of St. Thomas, "Rabbi Alper had a gap in his schedule, wanted to get away someplace nice to spend some time with his family, and looked up Rabbinic colleagues in places he might want to visit." Sure enough, one of them was his old friend Rabbi Jay Heyman on St. Thomas.
Alper liked what he heard from Heyman and, just for fun, offered to do a show while on island. As luck would have it, Heyman was scheduled to be off island on vacation, himself, this week, so Coulianos took on the project of organizing the event.
Alper's self-described "clean, unhurtful, warm" humor, by all Internet accounts, has appeal for a wide variety of audiences. The Fort Lauderdale (Fla.) Sun-Sentinel applauded "a performance that left all races, colors and creeds weeping from laughter." The New York Times has called the rabbi "a Jewish Bill Cosby." Alper himself says his role model is Bob Newhart.
He has said that what he seeks to convey in his act is "affability … When I do comedy, I very much feel it's consistent with being a rabbi … When I look out in the audience and after 10, 15 minutes, I see the handkerchiefs come out and they're wiping their eyes, I realize there's something very important occurring on a spiritual level. Comedy isn't just diversion; it's very life-affirming, health-giving. It's spirit-lifting."
On his web site (www.bobalper.com), there's a black-and-white picture of Alper mugging with a photograph of fellow comic Steve Martin that shows a striking physical resemblance between the two. The more recent color photo of the rabbi shown here has him looking rather more like St. Thomas businessman Cornelius Prior — whose wife, Trudie, has been president of the hosting Hebrew Congregation for the last two years.
Alper has been featured on Comedy Central and Showtime and played to a sold-out house in London last year. In addition to doing stand-up comedy shows, he conducts weekend scholar-in-residence programs that can include a sermon on the spirituality of humor or a workshop for teachers on the use of humor.
He also is the author of two well-received books. One, "Life Doesn't Get Any Better Than This" (subtitled "The Holiness of Little Daily Dramas"), consists of 44 inspirational vignettes. The other, "A Rabbi Confesses," is a collection of cartoons.
The hour and a half show is at 7:30 p.m. Thursday at Pistarckle Theater in Tillett Gardens. The Hebrew Congregation promises it will be "funny enough for teen-agers, clean enough for their grandparents and a hit with all faiths." Tickets are $20. "It's not a fundraiser," Coulianos said. "We're just doing it as a fun-raiser."
Tickets will be sold only at the door. However, reservations may be made by calling the synagogue office, 774-4312, or e-mailing to Hebrew Congregation.

WHAT'S WHEN AT THE ST. JOHN FESTIVAL

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June 15, 2001 – "Heritage, Culture and Fun for Festival 2001" is the theme of this year's St. John Festival. Here's the schedule of events from the June 2 kick-off through the Fourth of July finale. This article is being updated as new information becomes available.
Saturday, June 2 – 6 p.m., Pan-O-Rama, Cruz Bay Park. A dozen steelbands from St. John and St. Thomas are all winners in this non-competition event. Admission free.
Friday, June 8 – 8 p.m., Family Cultural Night, Winston Wells Ball Park. Fun and games including tug-of-war and a greased-pig contest. Admission free.
Friday, June 15 – 8:30 a.m., Bike race departing from the National Park Visitor Center dock and covering 15.3 miles. There's a $5 entry fee, payable before the race starts.
Friday, June 15 – 8 p.m., Salsa Night, Winston Wells Ball Field. The DW Band from Puerto Rico will perform. Admission $10 in advance, $15 at the gate.
Saturday, June 16 – 8 p.m., Calypso Show, Winston Wells Ball Field – postponed due to rain and rescheduled for Friday, June 22.
Sunday, June 17 – 7:30 p.m., Princess Show, Winston Wells Ball Field – postponed because of one of the contestants having pneumonia and rescheduled for Thursday, June 28.
Thursday, June 21 – 8 p.m., Comedy Show / Liars Festival, Winston Wells Ball Field. Participants include Dale Blackwood, Leon Danet, Magic Danet, Jimmy Powell, Pimpy Thomas and, from Tortola, Webb Frett – plus other surprise guests. Stanley and the Ten Sleepless Knights will provide musical entertainment.
Friday, June 22 – 6 p.m., Senior Citizen Talent and Variety Show, Winston Wells Ball Field. This is a new addition to the traditional festival lineup. Admission $10. Note: This event initially was scheduled for 7 p.m. but was moved back to add the calypso show, rained out on June 16. 8 p.m., Calypso Show, Winston Wells Ball Field. Featured performers include King Derby, Pat Ragguette, Tumba, Whadablee, Figgy, Calypso Sis, Super T, Mighty Groover, Singing Sandra and Tommy Joseph. Other attractions include the Caribbean Ritual Dancers and the V.I. Carnival King and Queen of the Band, William "Champagne" Chandler of Elskoe and Associates and Reisa Jackson of Jus Action. Tickets $15 in advance, $20 at the gate.
Saturday, June 23 – 7:30 p.m., Queen Show, Winston Wells Ball Field. Jennifer Dalmida, Catikawa Richardson and Lisa Powell are vying for the title of St. John Festival Queen. Tickets for adults $12 in advance, $15 at the gate; $8 for children under 12 either way.
Sunday, June 24 – 1 p.m., Queen Coronation and official opening of the Food Fair, this year honoring Gwendolyn Douglas, Cruz Bay Park. Ah We Band and Lashing Dog from Tortola will provide music. 2 p.m., Boat Races, Cruz Bay harbor. 8 p.m., Reggae Night, Winston Wells Ball Field. Scheduled to appear are Quito Rhymer from Tortola, Inner Vision, Star Lion Family and other surprise guests. Admission $7 in advance, $10 at the gate.
Monday, June 25 – noon, The 73rd Army Band in concert, Cruz Bay Park. This is the V.I. Army National Guard band, formerly known as the 666th. Admission is free.
Wednesday, June 27 – 7 p.m., Festival Party, Winston Wells Ball Field. P’your Passion and Jam Band will provide music. Admission is $10.
Thursday, June 28 – 7:30 p.m., Princess Show, Winston Wells Ball Field, rescheduled from June 17. Vying for the crown this year are Alesha Powell, Kerla Fessale and Shakwana Albert. Admission for adults $10 in advance, $12 at the gate; $7 for children under 12 either way. 8 p.m., Mr. Emancipation Show, Winston Wells Ball Field, was initially scheduled for this time but has been rescheduled for July 3.
Friday, June 29 – 1 p.m., – Cultural Day, Cruz Bay Park. The Eddie Bruce Combo and storyteller Gilbert Sprauve will be featured. 6 p.m., Children's Village opens, offering fun, games and food and drink in a drug- and alcohol-free environment for youngsters ages 4-13, plus bingo and a raffle for adults. Game tickets are 50 cents, and winners get tokens that can be accumulated to claim prizes. Hours are 6-10 p.m. 7 p.m., Boynes-Jackson Village opens, honoring Cheryl Boynes-Jackson.
Saturday, June 30 – 6-10 p.m., Children's Village is open. See June 29 listing for details.
Sunday, July 1 – 6-10 p.m., Children's Village is open. See June 29 listing for details.
Monday, July 2 – 6-10 p.m., Children's Village is open. See June 29 listing for details.
Tuesday, July 3 – 6-10 p.m., Children's Village is open. See June 29 listing for details. 8 p.m., Mr. Emancipation Show, Winston Wells Ball Field. This first-time festival event, rescheduled from June 28, is a male pageant/competition in which the three contestants will be judged in sleepwear instead of swimwear. It's being presented by the Love City Pan Dragons steelpan group. Admission information will be announced.
Wednesday, July 4 – 4 a.m., J'Ouvert, beginning at the Cruz Bay Tennis Courts. Imagination Brass, Cool Session, CMK and Positive Image will provide music. 11 a.m., Festival parade, Cruz Bay. 9 p.m., Fireworks, Cruz Bay Park.
Tickets for paid-admission events can be purchased in advance on St. John at the St. John Drug Pharmacy in Cruz Bay, and on St. Thomas at International Records and Tapes in Charlotte Amalie.
Leona Smith chairs the St. John Festival Committee. For more information about festival events, call her at 693-8036.

WINE TASTING TO BE OF AUSTRALIAN VINTAGES

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June 25, 2001 – Recent works by St. Thomas artists Phebe Schwartz and Jane Ryan-Clemo and wines of the Rosemount Estate in Australia will be featured at the Da Da Wine Down Friday at Cafe Amici.
The monthly event is from 5 to 8 p.m. at the courtyard restaurant in Riise's Alley in downtown Charlotte Amalie. Admission is free. Cafe owner Rick Kingsland provides complimentary hors d'oeuvres and there's a cash bar. For those taking part in the wine tasting and seminar, which goes on continuously until supplies are exhausted, there is a $10 fee. Door prizes of art, wine and dining certificates will be awarded.
West Indies Corp. is hosting the seminar and tasting of wines from Australia's Rosemount Estate, which in a little more than 30 years has become that nation's leading family winery. More than half of the company's annual production today is exported, to 34 countries.
Single vineyard, premium regional and classic varietal wines are produced from vineyards established in seven distinct vitcultural areas, each used to cultivate the grapes best suited to its climate, soil and topography.
Phebe Schwartz came to St. Thomas in 1987, sight unseen, and has been painting and teaching art at Bertha C. Boschulte Middle School ever since. Recently, she has moved in the direction of designing home fashions as a sideline.
Five years ago, she created a fund-raising project for her advanced art class at BCB: producing African-Caribbean art quilts. In this undertaking, she drew on her Peace Corps experience in Liberia and her fabric-art work with Judy Chicago's Birth Project. Her advanced students have produced one-of-a-kind quilts each year for five years that have been sold to raise funds for the class.
Schwartz says her current series of acrylic paintings, "Shells," evokes warm summer days spent on beaches with her father, a coastal geologist. "The paintings capture the feeling of staring into the sand and small sea shells for hours, contemplating the limitless and infinite amount of sand, the amazing architecture of the shells, a child's wonder at the thought of infinity and the meaning of the universe," she says.
Jane Ryan-Clemo, a 17-year resident of St. Thomas, describes herself as a self-taught folk artist whose "primitive art exemplifies creation in its purist form." She is especially known for her mocko jumbie soft sculptures and has won several awards for her designs.
Emphasizing innovation in a variety of media, she says she strives to keep her designs light-hearted and whimsical in theme, using vibrant colors to convey her feelings for life in the islands.
She collaborated with artist George Adelwerth of the CybiLL Pottery last year to transfer her mocko jumbie designs onto ceramic works.